Coorg

From the 2nd to the 6th century, the Kadambas ruled its northern province. The southern parts were successively connected to the Ganga Dynasty from the 4th to the 11th century. After a war with the Gangas in the 11th century, the Cholas emerged as the sole rulers of the whole of Kodagu. During the 12th century the Hoysalas, who were in Belur, Hassan district, drove away the Cholas from Kodagu. From the 14th century, the Vijayanagara Kings ruled supreme. After their fall, the local chieftans or Nayaks and Palegars, became independent and started ruling from wherever they stayed. Later on the Haleri Kings defeated them all and ruled Kodagu from 1600-1834. From then on Kodagu came under the direct rule of the British.

When India became independent in 1947, Kodagu (Coorg) also became a free land.  In 1950 as per the new Indian Constitution, Coorg became a state. In 1956 a state reorganization took place. Coorg was merged with Karnataka and became a district in Karnataka, which it remains till today. It has 3 taluks or districts, Madikeri, Somavarapete and Veerajapete. Madikeri is also the district headquarters of Coorg.

The Puranas refer to this land as Krodadesa or the land (desa) of the people blest by mother Goddess, River Cauvery (kod, meaning bless, and avva for mother Cauvery). The Puranic name for Coorg was also Matsyadesa (matsya, meaning fish) as is recorded in the Kaveri Purana. Down the ages, it came to be known as Kodagu and the people, Kodavas. This has further changed to Coorg. According to some sources, the word Kodagu is derived from the word “Kudu”, which means “Hilly place”.

It is said about the Coorgs (or Kodavas as they are locally known) “They are easier to love than to like.” One of the most hospitable people in India, the doors of their homes are always open to guests. Cosmopolitan in their outlook, they make friends easily.

Kodava texts do not speak much of their origins and so there is no one definite theory to prove it. However, according to one, the 2500 year-old civilization of the Kodavas has evolved from a synthesis of people that originally lived in the region of today’s Oman & Yemen. According to Yemen’s history, people from there had migrated to the Coorg region around the fifth century BC.

Yet another belief claims that Scythian Greek soldiers brought by Alexander of Macedonian, stayed on after his return and married the local women of Kodagu, to form a new, distinct race.

Some even call them the descendents of people belonging to the Mohenjodaro civilization. One of their branches travelled south and stayed on in this land of beauty.

All these different people might have adopted the local Hindu customs and married local women, but they kept their valuable traditions, dress and Peechekati (traditional dagger) intact. These are now the cultural treasures of the Coorgs.

The Coorgs today are Hindus. They are a martial race and belong to the Kshatriya community. The Kodavas follow Hinduism but are more liberal and independent than any other Hindu sect in customs relating to marriage, divorce, remarriage, festivals, worship, ceremonies, dialect and also dress. They are probably the only Indian community that does not observe the dowry system. Child marriages too are unheard of.

They worship ancestors (Karana), and the river Cauvery as mother Goddess, while Lord Iggutappa is the presiding deity. Most of the temples in villages have their origin in Kerala.  The Brahmins from the Uttara/Dakshina (north/ south) Kannada districts look after the temples.

Coorg can be called a land of Generals-  Field Marshall Cariappa, the first Commander-in-Chief of free India, and General Thimmayya being the most well known of the lot. Almost every household has at least one person serving in the defense force. The birth of a male child, as well as their death ceremonies, are still celebrated with a gun salute.

Distinct Culture What strikes a first-time visitor to Coorg is probably its stunning beauty – both, of nature and of the people. Not only is Coorg beautiful to look at but its people are equally good looking. They are a fun-loving race, very friendly and pure of heart.

Though Coorg is situated in Karnataka in the South of India, the marriage customs of the land seem a mix of the North and South along with some distinct customs of its own. The bride is always dressed in red just like a North Indian bride, unlike a Southern one, normally dressed in green or yellow. The groom’s attire is quite different from that of other Indian grooms. But he always carries a Peechekathi (traditional dagger) reminiscent of the long sword carried by the Northern groom.

And coffee is found throughout Coorg, literally. It is cultivated extensively and used as a beverage too. A visit to Coorg cannot be complete without savouring some delicious Coorg coffee. For the adventurous at heart, stay in Coorg is recommended on a coffee plantation, with coffee plantation owners playing host. A great experience!

Coorg has its own language known as “Kodava Tak”. It has no script. It is a combination of Kannada, Tamil and Malayalam with Kannada being the most influential of the three. Appaneravanda Appachakavi and Nadikeriyanda Chinnappa are two famous poets and writers of the Kodava language.

Folk Dances & Songs: The “Janapada” (folk) songs rendered during marriages, parties and at the time of deaths and births, even during fairs are very philosophical and have a lot of meaning. Most folk songs are related to specific occasions and there seems to be a song for almost every occasion. Huttariya kunitha, bolukata, ummathata, kolata, olagathata and kathiyata are some of the folk dances of the Coorgs.coorgWedding2

Attire: The Coorg attire is a little different from that of other Indian states. Men wear a traditional ‘Kupya’ or long, black, button less, short sleeved, V-neck coat, reaching below the knees and a ‘chaley’, a beautifully tasselled silken sash, at the waist. The ‘peechekathi’ or dagger is tucked in the sash at the right side. The ‘Mande Thuni” or turban, is flat at the top with ‘jari’ all around. Women wear the sari in a distinct fashion where the pallu doesn’t go over the shoulder but goes around the back, over the right shoulder and a beautifully crafted pin on the right collarbone holds it in place.

Customs: The dowry system quite prevalent among most Hindu communities is almost unknown here. Marriage ceremonies although held in traditional dresses, are performed without a Brahmin or puja. The elders help in the rituals and bless the couples. Another execption among the Hindus is the serving of non-vegetarian dishes and liquor in the weddings of the Kodava community.

Festivals: The traditional festivals of the Kodavas are associated with either the agricultural or the military nature of its people.

Keilpoldu or Keilmurta From June to September the Kodavas are fully devoted to agriculture. September marks the end of the sowing of the paddy as also the season of agricultural work. Keilpoldu, or the festival of arms, is the day when all the weapons and arms are removed, polished, worshipped and taken up once again. The occasion is marked by festivities that include a great feast followed by a gathering at the village green for sports and games. Races are conducted and competitions of marksmanship are held. As the grand finale the men usually set out on hunt.

Kaveri Shankaramana Observed in October, this festival is associated with the river Cauvery, which has a very big influence in a Kodava’s life. As agriculturists, their entire economy and prosperity depends on availability of water, amply provided by the river Cauvery, which flows through the district.

On this auspicious day in October at a pre-determined time, mother Cauvery springs like a fountain from a small tank and fills the bigger holy tank in Talacauvery, the point of origin of the river. People throng the place in thousands to take a holy dip in this water. This water is filled in bottles and reaches every house in Kodagu and this is treated as Theertha – meaning holy water.

Puthari (Huthari) is the traditional harvest festival known for a variety of folk songs and dances being displayed. It is observed in November/December. Each village presents its own set of discipline and dances during the annual fairs at its temple, which is the main centre of cultural activities. When the Paddy Crop is ready for the harvest, a little crop is cut, bound in small bunches and handed out to all those present to be taken home and preserved as a sign of prosperity.

Bhagawathi Feast It is a lesser-known festival celebrated during March or April. It is a nine-day festival.

Coorg enjoys a moderate climate. Winters are pleasantly cool at 15-20 degrees Celsius though during December to February the minimum temperature may go down to 9o C. Summers are only slightly warm at 25-35 degrees Celsius.

June, July & August are the months with heavy rainfall. During this season the weather is cool, humid and wet.

Coffee blossoms fill the air with an exhilarating fragrance in March-April. During May the cool and pure waters of the Cauvery are ideal for bathing in at the Dubare forest or Nisarga Dhama or for enjoying a dip near the Iruppu or Abbi Falls.

With the onset of the monsoons in June, everything becomes lush green. The glory of many seasonal waterfalls and the Cauvery flowing in all her majesty can best be seen during July – September.

The Dushera festival and Cauvery Sankramana herald the beginning of the regular tourist season in Kodagu. The best season to visit Coorg is between September and March.

Coorg cuisine is highly influenced by the mouth-watering South Indian delicacies. A lot of coconut, curry leaves, ginger, chilli and spices like pepper and cardamom, grown here in abundance are used. Most South Indian states boast of a vegetarian diet but Coorg has a very rich cuisine of dishes prepared with meat, pork being an all time favourite. The ingredients though, bear a strong resemblance to those used to prepare the mouth-watering delicacies of the South. Thus we find abundant use of curry leaves, coconut and chilli. Pork, mushrooms, chicken, bamboo-shoots, rice and banana are but a few favourite ingredients that result in the delicious food prepared.

The capital of Coorg formerly called Mercara, Madikeri is often known as the Scotland of India. It has enchanted millions of travellers with its misty hills, lush forests, coffee plantations and breath taking views. Also known for its lovely climate, Madikeri is a world record holder for the cardamom crop.

Famous for being the largest producer of honey in south east Asia, though most come here for the Padi Igutappa temple. This is Coorg’s most important temple and the presiding deity of the Puthari Festival. Built as a hunting lodge, the Nalnad Palace is used as a kiddies’ camp, though no one will really mind you pottering around. You could also visit the honey farms.

Getting There

Bus & Taxi: There are daily buses that do it in about 90 minutes. You could also catch yourself a bus from Napoklu.

With a dome in the middle of a square lake and minarets at each corner, this is a catholic mix of Keralite, Gothic and Islamic architectural styles. Built in 1820 by King Lingarajendra.

A great place to cuddle up for the night. This 2.5 sq. km. large island in the middle of the River Cauvery, is some place to romance.

At the convergence of the rivers Cauvery, the underground Sujyothi and the Kanike, the Bhangandeshwara temple here has a distinct Kerala touch. Because of the three rivers, it is also called Triveni Sangama. The serene temple has intricate carvings and a copper roof. A dip at the Triveni Sangam nearby is supposed to revive sagging spirits, but take prior permission at the temple.

Every October 17, on Tulasankranama, thousands come here to swim and pray. For this is Telecauvery (meaning Head of the Cauvery), the origin of one of the seven sacred rivers. The source of this long river, which passes through two states, is on the top of the hill called Brahmagiri. It is 1535 metres above sea level. Steps lead up to the Brahmagiri peak, from where a panoramic view of Kodagu meets the visitor.

Getting There

Bus & Taxi: Buses leave Madikeri every hour, and take about 90 minutes to reach. The ride is very scenic.

Though the name literally means Snake River in Kannada, there aren’t too many snakes around. Created from a former raja’s hunting grounds, Nagarahole is one of the best game sanctuaries in South India, providing a natural living conditions to several wild animals like elephants, tigers, panthers, rhinos and wild elephants, but one is more likely to see smaller game like gaur, deer, wild dogs and langur. Pleasantly cool round the year, it is a little difficult to reach, which makes it quieter than other parks. This in turn makes it a great place to relax. Jungle safaris are available as elephant rides.

Getting There

Bus & Taxi: Direct dailies from Mysore and Madikeri. You could also take a bus to Gonikoppal from either of these places, take another to Kutta, and finally hire a jeep.

This is more a hike than a holiday (there are people like us out there who take these differences very seriously). You could begin from behind the Rameshwarna temple, and relax at a refreshing pond halfway up the falls. Then, if you are some strange sort of enthusiastic trekker and have some spare RBC (the leeches demand that), carry on to the top.

Getting There

Bus & Taxi: Direct buses leave Madikeri every couple of hours. You could also catch a bus from Gonikoppal. There are more of those from there.

Just 7 kilometers from Madikeri town are the Abbi Falls, as remarkable and striking a sight as you would see anywhere. The narrow road to Abbi Falls is a combination of steep ups and downs, twists and turns, wriggling through the green and dense foliage of surrounding coffee plantations. Situated on private property, a narrow pathway leads you downward to where the waterfall can be seen.

As various streams congregate in the mountains above, they swell with the monsoon rains and force their way down the mountain slope. Splashing hard against the huge boulders of rock, unmindful of the crevices and hollows, the water drops at enormous speed accompanied by gushing sounds. This white wall of water creates a misty cloud with its moisture-like spray and descends into a flowing stream to perhaps join with the River Cauvery somewhere in the vicinity.

If you can get off to an early start and if the sky is beautiful with the clouds, take the road to Somwarpet. This 42-kilometer, one-and-half hour drive will surely perk you up. This is the coffee heartland of Coorg. You will pass through some of the finest coffee estates you will ever see. Magnificent trees reaching up to the skies, casting much wanted masses of shade to the coffee plants. It’s one great spread of continuous foliage very gloriously prepared in an extraordinary operation by Nature. Mingled with cardamom and pepper as well. Big, medium or small, they add to the already beautiful and fabulous landscape all around.

Besides being the hub of coffee activity, Somwarpet’s other claim to fame is the Basappa Club. Like the cold stone-walls of taverns where sailors and ship mates would gather to make merry, drink, talk and pick up some gossip, the Basappa Club is frequented by the medium and small gentlemen coffee planters, who meet here to unwind. Except that out here, there are no cold, stonewalls. Instead, one can have a game of Table Tennis or Snooker in this small, but compact club. And there’s plenty of gossip to be picked up, as well.

Apart from the popular sight seeing places, Kodagu district has a whole lot of Trekking Tracks for those who seek adventure in the wild.

Area:

1595 square miles/ 4102.3 sq. km

Population:

4,85,299 as per 1991 census

Altitude:

Uneven surface- average height around 1170 meters

Climate:

Moderate climate- pleasant Winters, warm summers, heavy monsoons

Warmest Months:

March To May.

Average Temperature:

13°Celcius To 26°Celcius.

Coolest Months:

December To February

Rainfall:

2725.5-mm annually.

Languages:

Kodava-Thak, Kannada, Maliyalam, Tamil, Hindi, English

STD Code

08272(Madikeri), 08274 (Virajpet), 08276 (Somwarpet)